Hiking Oregon: This Calls For Waterfalls

Update 8/31/2018: As the Eagle Creek Fire anniversary is around the corner, it’s important to realize that the area surrounding Multnomah Falls is still recovering from this natural disaster. The beautiful trails (Wahkeena Falls and Larch Mountain) that we used to see all the waterfalls, are still mostly closed. The same goes for adjacent trails, such as Devil’s Rest and Angel’s Rest. The United States Forest Service estimates that these trails will be open at the end of this year. However, the lower portion of the Larch Mountain trail (the part we ended with) is already open from Multnomah Falls Lodge to Benson Bridge.

Hopefully, reading this blog will get you excited about taking this hike yourself once the trails reopen!

Multnomah-Wahkeena Loop

As we steadily get to terms with the natural wonders that Washington and Oregon have to offer, our first big (more than a leisurely stroll) hike had us start and finish at a tourist trap: Multnomah Falls. Busloads of people drive up here (good luck on that) to take in the grand and picturesque sight. The United States Forest Service credits these falls as the second tallest in the country. Whether that is true or not, it most certainly earns that title in its home state. Either way, we needed to dilute the touristy aspect, up the physical effort, and see more waterfalls. The Multnomah-Wahkeena Loop was just what we were looking for.

Not Parking There is Half the Fun

My wife and I readied ourselves on a cloudy Saturday morning, and drove up to Rooster Rock State Park. This park is mostly known for its iconic, phallic-shaped monolith. Supposedly the original name of the column rhymed, but I will leave that to your own imagination. I will tell you, that it goes hand in hand with the clothing-optional beach at the park.

In this case, Rooster Rock happened to be the place where we took a shuttle bus. Nothing more, nothing less. You pay a five dollar entrance fee, park in one of the 1200 spots, and off you go on the Columbia Gorge Express. A whopping seven mile journey awaits. One that will fill your heart with joy and excitement when you exit the bus. This is when you discover that the Multnomah lot is completely full. Cars lined up way down the road. Did I mention the bus is free, and you do not wait in line with those poor souls?

Not waiting in line makes me very happy, so this hike was off to a great start.

Wahkeena Falls Trail

The first part of the trail keeps the Historic Columbia River Highway in close sight. This was hardly a distraction, because the traffic was barely moving that day.

Before we reached Wahkeena Falls, we passed a beautiful weeping wall. It grabbed our attention simply because it did not exhibit all the force that most other waterfalls have.

After only half a mile we made it to the Wahkeena Falls Trail. As you can see on the image below, there is mention of a Perdition Trail. It turns out that this route lived up to its name, because damaging fire and water caused the authorities to close this scenic shortcut between Multnomah and Wahkeena.

Up next was a climb to Lemmon’s Viewpoint. Time for second gear, because it was fairly steep, but completely worth it. Once you get there, you will be rewarded with a mostly unobstructed view of the Columbia River Gorge. As a bonus, we witnessed a baby chipmunk feeding frenzy.

One of my favorite parts of the hike was following Wahkeena Creek. When I think “creek,” I think of a little meandering stream going about its business. Not this one. Wahkeena Creek demands attention by the way it comes tumbling down the canyon. The sounds and smells all add to the experience, as well as the many fallen tree stems and washed-away footbridge.

Wasn’t there a missing footbridge I hear you saying? Yes, indeed, but hikers have improvised and built a new “bridge.” Obviously it serves its purpose, but be forewarned that it deserves your full attention. Even though it crosses right in front of the Fairy Falls, this is not the place to stop and take a picture. The Fairy Falls are, as the name suggests, not as robust as some as the other falls on this hike, but they are very photogenic.

The rest of the trail is very well marked also. There was only one section that caused some confusion right before the junction with the Vista Point and Devil’s Rest trails. One of the very slight detours that we took, was to Wahkeena Springs. Supposedly you can fill up your water bottles here, but since we did not try, I can’t tell you how good (or bad) it would have tasted.

Larch Mountain Trail

Eventually the Wahkeena Trail will join the Larch Mountain Trail. At that point you will be going mostly downhill. Don’t cheer too soon, because it was actually pretty strenuous, and the rough terrain meant no peeking at my camera while walking. On the bright side there were several more waterfalls to admire, and I must admit that the announcement of our lunch venue helped to keep things moving.

The first waterfall on the way down was Ecola Falls. This 55-foot high fall had been known by various other names, before getting its officially recognized title. The only pictures I took of this waterfall are from the side of its crest. To get an unobstructed view you will have to venture down a slope (not a path). My “stay-on-the-trail voice” reminded me that the next photo op at Wiesendanger would be just as good. Glad I listened.

The last section before the big Multnomah show had my special interest, as they were the Dutchman Tunnel and Upper, Middle and Lower Dutchman Falls. I wish I had a spectacular explanation for the naming of these falls, but supposedly they are named after the tunnel, which is named after… No idea. Albert Wiesendanger, who the earlier falls are named after, does have a memorial plaque in the tunnel, but has Swiss heritage. After my wife took the obligatory “Dutchman at Dutchman Falls” picture, we could move on with our lives and make our way to Multnomah Falls.

Rushing Water, Congested Bridge

As soon as the trail became paved, we were surrounded by day-trippers. A clear signal that we were getting close to our destination. It’s funny to realize that we were just going downhill from there, while a lot of other visitors had to negotiate the intense switchbacks twice.

Any doubts about Multnomah Falls’ popularity quickly faded when we reached Benson Bridge. People tried to move in both directions. Photographers stopped to take their best shots. As a result, there is an actual traffic jam on the bridge. As beautiful as these falls are, I am extremely happy that we made a proper hike out of it, and were able to see all the other falls as a build-up.

To my surprise we easily were seated at the Multnomah Falls Lodge. The burgers that we ordered hit the spot, but were by no means memorable. The hike itself was memorable, and I am looking forward to taking it on again in a different season.

Keep exploring!